The Story of Zambian Coffee (the Small Southern African Origin Most People Don't Know That Exists)

The Story of Zambian Coffee (the Small Southern African Origin Most People Don't Know That Exists)

If you ask someone to list African coffee origins, you'll get Ethiopia, Kenya, Rwanda, Burundi, maybe Tanzania or Uganda. You almost never get Zambia. That's strange, because Zambia has been growing coffee for the better part of a century, and the coffee it produces — when you can find it — is some of the cleanest washed Arabica in Africa.

This is the story of where Zambian coffee comes from, why so little of it leaves the country, and what makes the cup the way it is.

Where Zambian coffee is actually grown

Zambia is landlocked — bordered by the Democratic Republic of the Congo to the north, Tanzania and Malawi to the east, Mozambique and Zimbabwe to the south, and Angola to the west. It's mostly high savanna, much of it on a plateau between 1,000 and 1,600 meters above sea level. The capital, Lusaka, sits at 1,279 meters.

The coffee comes from a smaller set of regions in the northern part of the country, most of it concentrated around the Mafinga Hills and the area near Kasama, in the Northern Province. The terrain there is hilly and the elevation runs higher — often 1,400 to 1,800 meters above sea level, which puts it in the range where Arabica grows well.

Total annual production is small. The whole country produces somewhere around 7,000 to 10,000 metric tons of green coffee per year, which is less than what a single large Brazilian farm might produce in a fraction of a harvest. Most of what does get exported ends up in Japan, Germany, and a handful of European specialty buyers. Very little of it reaches North American shelves.

Why so little leaves Zambia

There are three reasons. The first is geography. Zambia has no coastline, no major port. Every container of coffee has to travel by road to a port — typically Dar es Salaam in Tanzania, about 1,500 kilometers from the growing region. That adds cost and time. Coffee that would take a week to reach a roaster from Brazil or Colombia can take four to six weeks to leave Zambia.

The second reason is scale. Most Zambian coffee is grown by smallholder farmers — many with fewer than two hectares of coffee trees. There are some larger estates, but the country isn't dominated by plantation coffee the way Brazil or Vietnam is. When you have smallholders, you have logistics headaches: aggregating cherries from hundreds of small farms, processing them consistently, getting them to a dry mill.

The third reason is history. Until the early 2000s, the Zambian government controlled the coffee industry through a marketing board. When the board was dissolved and the industry opened up, farmers had to find buyers on their own. Many didn't. Coffee plantings in some regions shrank dramatically. The recovery has been slow.

What the cup tastes like

Zambian coffee, when you can find it, is mostly washed process. The wet mills in the north are well-run — a lot of them were built or upgraded with European specialty buyer investment in the 2010s. The result is a clean cup with the kind of brightness you'd associate with a Kenya or a Rwanda, but a slightly softer, more tea-like character.

Common notes: black currant, citrus zest, sometimes a hint of florals — orange blossom or jasmine in the better lots. The body tends toward medium. Acidity is bright but not aggressive. The finish is long and sweet, often with a brown sugar or honey quality.

Compared to Kenyan coffee, Zambian coffee is generally less aggressive in acidity and slightly more delicate in body. Compared to Rwandan coffee, it's often a bit cleaner and more citric, with less of the heavy stone-fruit character that Rwanda sometimes shows in the wet-processed lots.

A good Zambian coffee is a very good cup. It just doesn't come with the country-name recognition that the same cup would get if it had been grown 1,500 kilometers north in Kenya.

The varietals and processing

The Arabica varietals most common in Zambia are the usual suspects for African washed coffee: SL28 and SL34 (the Kenya selections), Bourbon, and some Castillo and Caturra. There are also small plantings of Geisha — recent and rare, but increasingly visible in micro-lots.

Processing is mostly washed, with the cherry's mucilage removed through fermentation and washing before drying. Drying is typically done on raised African beds — the same setup you see in Kenya, Rwanda, and Burundi. Patio drying exists but is less common in the wetter northern regions.

A small amount of natural-process Zambian coffee does exist, and it's interesting when you can find it — the natural process adds a heavier fruit character that can read as blueberry or strawberry, layered over the underlying citrus-bright cup.

The drying phase is what sets a great Zambian lot apart from a merely good one. Most cooperatives raise the parchment on traditional African beds — wire-bottomed wooden frames that allow air to circulate above and below the drying parchment. The beds are usually covered with shade cloth to slow the drying, which can run 10 to 20 days depending on humidity. Slow drying tends to produce a cleaner, more balanced final cup, with fewer of the off-flavors that come from rushed drying.

A handful of the newer cooperatives have started experimenting with honey-process and anaerobic-natural lots, similar to what's happening in Costa Rica and Kenya. These experimental processing methods are still small in volume, but they're producing some of the more interesting Zambian cups we've seen. If you see a honey-process Zambia from a roaster, try it.

Where to find Zambian coffee

If you live in the US or Canada, finding Zambian coffee outside a specialty roaster's seasonal menu is hard. Most green Zambian coffee is exported through Johannesburg or Mombasa, and it ends up in Europe before it gets to North America.

We don't currently have a Zambian coffee in our catalog — the volumes are too small for us to buy consistently, and what we can find is priced higher than the comparable Kenya or Rwanda. But we taste it when we can. It's the kind of origin we tell them to ask about if they're looking for something unusual.

If you do find a Zambian coffee at a local roaster, the cup is worth the experiment. Brew it like a Kenya — a V60 or Chemex, 1:16 ratio, 200°F water, a four-pour pulse. The cup will reward the cleaner brewing.

Why this origin matters

The reason Zambian coffee is worth knowing about, even if you never buy a bag, is the bigger story. Specialty coffee is largely a story of naming — where the coffee comes from, who grew it, what makes it different. The names we know are the names that survived the supply chain. Zambia is one of the places that should have had a name in our heads by now and didn't, mostly because the infrastructure to get it there hasn't been built.

As the supply chain in Zambia matures — and it's getting better — more of this coffee will reach roasters outside Europe. When it does, more people will know the name. That's how origins break through. It happened with Rwanda in the 2000s. It's happening with Burundi more recently. Zambia is on a similar arc, just a few years behind.

We pay attention to origins on that arc, because they're the ones where small roasters can have relationships with growers that larger roasters don't bother with yet. It's the kind of relationship we'd want for ourselves, when we're ready.

Brew slow. Sip slow.

— The Cozy Sips team

P.S. We've written about Rwanda and Burundi if you want the larger East African specialty story. Both origins faced similar challenges and broke through on similar timelines. Zambia is on its way.